A Friday Evening Adventure in ‘Secular’ Tel Aviv
A month ago, my wife and I spent Shabbat in a charming hotel in Yafo. Searching for an inspiring place to daven (pray) on Friday night, we were directed to a nearby synagogue called Zichron Baruch. We decided to give it a try.
What we encountered there was unlike anything we had experienced before. The davening was electric — overflowing with energy, joy, and uplift. It blended the warmth and melodic richness of the Sephardic tradition with the soulful intensity of Carlebach-style song. The synagogue was packed with young men and women from every conceivable background. Everyone sang. Everyone participated. There was no rabbi presiding from the front — just a community that seemed to have built itself organically, animated by a shared love of Judaism, Israel, and one another. Strangers were welcomed with radiant smiles. The atmosphere pulsed with authenticity and belonging.
By the end of the service, we felt as though we had attended a Jewish spiritual concert. We left determined that the next time we found ourselves in Tel Aviv for Shabbat, we would return.
That opportunity came sooner than expected. This past Shabbat, we were again in Tel Aviv — this time staying in the north of the city to be closer to our daughter. We had resolved to take a taxi to Zichron Baruch before Shabbat and then walk forty minutes back to our hotel afterward.
But as the afternoon waned, our plans began to unravel. Neither of us could activate the Gett taxi app. Undeterred, we headed toward Herbert Samuel Street along the beach, hoping to hail a cab the old-fashioned way. Taxi after taxi sped by, each one already occupied. The minutes ticked away. If we didn’t find a ride soon, we would have to walk the entire distance and likely miss much of the davening.
What began as a brisk walk turned into a near-sprint. There we were — two visibly religious Jews in Shabbat attire — running down one of Tel Aviv’s busiest streets, arms extended toward passing taxis in what must have appeared a rather desperate display. Taxi after taxi passed but none stopped. And just when it seemed we had exhausted our luck, a young woman pulled over, rolled down her window, and asked gently if she could help.
We explained where we were headed. Without hesitation, she offered to take us. Gratefully climbing into her car, we caught our breath and thanked her again and again. During the short ride, she asked when we had begun keeping Shabbat. We told her that we had both grown up in religious homes and had always observed it.
“Eizeh kef lachem — you’re so lucky,” she replied.
She went on to share that she had been raised in a secular home but had recently begun keeping Shabbat herself. She explained that she had come to understand “what really matters in life.”
Within minutes, we arrived at the synagogue with barely a moment to spare before sunset. We thanked her once more and hurried inside just as the davening began.
As I sat there amid the singing and davening, I paused to consider the chain of events. We were in the so-called “secular” city of Tel Aviv. A young woman from a secular background had stopped — on her own initiative — to help two flustered religious Jews reach a synagogue on the eve of Shabbat. She herself was quietly charting a path toward greater observance. And we were now immersed in a synagogue alive with passion, unity, and spiritual energy — more vibrant, in many ways, than communities we had encountered in places formally labeled “religious.”
And it struck me then that this is Israel at its finest. The kindness. The camaraderie. The joy. The Jews of disparate backgrounds coming together to sing, to daven, and to welcome the Shabbat Queen.
Yes, Israel faces profound challenges. But with people like these, I can’t help but believe we will be alright.
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