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The Family ‘GPS’ That Guides Elephants Across the India–Nepal Border & the Villagers Keeping It Alive

40 0
05.10.2026

This National Wildlife Week, we look at the many ways human choices shape our relationship with wildlife — from what we grow and believe to what we consume and how we understand animals. Through four stories, the series explores everyday conflicts and connections, and the people finding more thoughtful ways to share space with wildlife.

Think back to the first time you went somewhere new as a child. You probably didn't read a map. You held someone's hand, watched where they stepped, and slowly the road became yours.

Elephant calves learn the world in much the same way. Only their classroom is a forest that stretches across two countries, and their teacher is often the oldest female in the family, one who first walked this path decades ago.

Before dawn breaks over the forests, an elephant herd begins to move.

At the front walks the oldest female. She does not stop to search for the way ahead. She does not hesitate at the fork where two forest trails split. 

She turns with the confidence of someone who has been here many times before. She has, perhaps dozens of times over her life. There is no signboard here, no GPS, no one to ask for directions. There is only memory: hers, and before that, her mother's.

Behind her, the rest of the herd follows in single file. Mothers keep calves close to their sides. 

None of the calves has ever made this journey. Yet, by the time the day ends, they will have crossed a river, entered another country and reached forests.

Across the Terai Arc Landscape, throughout the year, herds travel both ways between Uttar Pradesh's Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary and Nepal's Bardia National Park, using the same forested corridors their families have followed for generations. 

Elephants have culture. And every journey is how they pass it on.

Culture is a word we usually keep for ourselves. We use it for our languages, our festivals, the recipes our grandmothers never wrote down. So what could it possibly mean for an elephant?

The answer begins at a river.

By the time the herd reaches the Geruwa River, the current is strong after the rains, but the matriarch enters first. The younger females follow, while the smallest calves pause at the water's edge before placing their feet exactly where their mothers did moments earlier.

Adults instinctively close ranks, forming a loose circle around the youngest members as the family makes its way across. From a distance, it looks like an ordinary river crossing.

Look closer, conservationists say, and it becomes something else entirely.

According to Apoorv Dixit, Indian Forest........

© The Better India