In a dying Calif. Chinatown, a 99-year holdout says goodbye
Some stories don’t have happy endings. They just end. Such is the case for Mee Heng Low Noodle House, the unparalleled California institution that sits in the heart of what used to be San Luis Obispo’s Chinatown district.
Inside the restaurant, it’s buzzier than it has been in years. There’s a vibrant heartbeat that grows more faint with each passing second. After all, it’s the restaurant’s last week in business.
Generational owner and chef Russell Kwong set a whirlwind of emotions in motion last Thursday when he announced via Instagram that he would be quitting the family restaurant and closing it down for good.
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Diners enjoy a meal at the Mee Heng Low Noodle House in San Luis Obispo, Calif., on Aug. 24, 2026.
The decision has been a year in the making, he told SFGATE this week.
It had started, as many sad stories do, with some unexpected good news. In August of last year, the restaurant won a $50,000 grant to restore its iconic neon sign.
The refurbished sign signaled a new wave of optimism for Chinatown’s last standing business. But on the exact same day Kwong found out that the grant had come through, so did the news that the building that houses the restaurant was being put up for sale.
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“I was like, ‘OK, we’ll do the grant, we’ll get the building looking good and then we’ll go from there,’” Kwong said.
A pedestrian walks by the Mee Heng Low Noodle House in San Luis Obispo, Calif., on Aug. 24, 2026.
The upstairs interior of the Mee Heng Low Noodle House on Aug. 24, 2026.
Once listed, the space drew a lot of attention. Potential buyers from San Luis Obispo and beyond came to look at the roughly 2,000-square-foot building, listed for just under $900,000.
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Eventually, a local buyer who owns several restaurants and venues throughout town entered escrow on the building in July. Last Monday, days before closing, he pulled out. Tired of the uncertainty surrounding his and the restaurant’s future with a potential new owner, Kwong took matters into his own hands and announced that he was going to step away.
“I need to be able to live my life and know what’s going to happen,” Kwong, 34, explained. He noted that the steady stream of potential buyers coming in and out of the restaurant over the last year had turned into a grind. “All these buyers come in and say, ‘Oh, we’re going to turn it into a nightclub. Oh, it’s going to be apartments. Oh, it’s going to be a speakeasy,’ whatever that means. There’s so many concepts, I don’t think I have a place in that.”
Kwong took over the restaurant’s day-to-day operations from his father, Paul, in late 2019 after he........
