The double-edged sword of eating with the seasons is the glut. A blunt, un-pretty word, which is a joy in theory and delicious in result, but which can feel daunting when you’re facing down a bench full of berries to be picked over, or countless apples to be processed.

My husband and I were once given an apple tree as a present. It’s a multi-graft, meaning each of the three branches produces a different type of apple: russets, for storing, bramleys, for cooking, and tart eating apples. This is the first year that it’s thrown up more than three measly apples. Well, it’s made up for lost time; we are, to put it mildly, drowning in apples.

It’s a little lighter than a crumble, and the layering means the breadcrumbs and cooked fruit meld together

I’m always on the hunt for new and delicious ways to use up this bounty. It’s impossible, of course, to make your way through so much ripe fruit before it goes bad. A small proportion of it is eaten fresh, often before it even makes it inside the........

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