George Gissing (1857–1903) is best known for his unflinching representations of Victorian society, portraying the struggles of the burgeoning middle classes and the perils of social mobility. But amid the novelist’s keen observations of late 19th-century London, Gissing explored a topic that was gaining cultural momentum at the time – vegetarianism.

During the 1880s and 1890s vegetarianism wasn’t just a dietary choice, it was a growing movement. Restaurants, clubs and societies sprang up across London, promoting the cause through lectures, pamphlets and dinners.

Prominent Victorian activists like Annie Besant, Edward Carpenter and Anna Kingsford championed the cause. In his 1929 autobiography, Gandhi described vegetarianism as a “new cult” of London. A popular vegetarian restaurant’s slogan – “Economical, Healthful and Humane” – also summed up its appeal.

For many urban lower-middle-class clerks and retail workers, a vegetable diet promised affordability and health. It was championed by proponents as a natural lifestyle. It contributed to a........

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