“Rice is cooked on people’s heads.” This is Varun Hegde’s favourite story to tell about the Shisharanni ritual as he escorts travellers into Goa’s villages every March, where the locals prepare to celebrate Shigmo — the harvest festival that heralds spring.

Varun pauses to allow the dramatic gasp that always follows his tale.

This story might seem unbelievable to those whose idea of the festival is coloured by the parades and floats that deck Goa’s streets. “That is one version of it,” confirms Varun, who leads cultural explorations at Soul Travelling — an initiative that specialises in offbeat tourism. But far removed from the chic masquerades is a more authentic interpretation of the festival, celebrated in the villages of Goa.

This Shigmotsav, The Better India decided to explore it — through the eyes of Varun and photographer Daniel Dsouza, who have enjoyed a front-row seat to these esoteric, spirited gatherings that happen in the hinterlands.

Homecoming of soldiers and Indian cupid lords

March in Goa is a vibe. The month is considered a harbinger of good. The harvest could be one reason. As farmers set aside their ploughs, Goa dons her festive avatar, hopping into a cultural extravaganza. Crowds swarm the streets; folk music, dance, and mythological depictions add to the fanfare.

Much has been written about this flamboyant side of Shigmo called ‘Vhadlo’, but much less about ‘Dhakto Shigmo’.

© The Better India