Less than 15 minutes into my dinner with Dominique Crenn last week at her splashy new Los Angeles-area restaurant inside a Dior boutique in Beverly Hills, a man came to our table to show Crenn a photo. The gleaming image, he assured our table, was of the eight-carat diamond ring he’d presented to his wife while dining at Crenn’s three-Michelin-starred San Francisco restaurant Atelier Crenn. The man, who mentioned that he had once been the CEO of an iconic men’s magazine, then pointed to his wife at an adjacent table and noted that she was wearing her “other” eight-carat ring that night.

Somehow, the over-the-top interaction didn’t feel out of place at Crenn’s luxe new restaurant, Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn, which occupies the third floor of the French fashion house’s Rodeo Drive boutique. After all, Monsieur Dior is all about opulence, from its location on perhaps the most iconic high-end shopping street in the country to the $82 truffle-topped beef short ribs on the menu. The restaurant already sits happily next to a section selling $230 plates and $390 glassware (some of which are used in the dining room), so what’s a little extra eight-carat flash?

Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn is on the third floor of the Dior boutique on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, Calif.

Dry-aged tuna tartare with flower-shaped yam chips at Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn in Beverly Hills, Calif.

Caviar with smoked creme fraiche and buckwheat madeleines at Monsieur Dior by Dominique Crenn in Beverly Hills, Calif.

The sweeping restaurant, with 64 seats in the dining room and 41 in the bar and lounge, is much larger restaurant than the minuscule Atelier Crenn or Bar Crenn in San Francisco. Monsieur Dior marks the second partnership with the French fashion brand. (She opened Café Dior with the company in Dallas this year.) Although Crenn cooked in Los Angeles years ago, even before she landed in San Francisco, it’s her first restaurant in the area with her name on the door.

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“I’m coming here with a lot of humility,” Crenn told me. “I have a house in LA, I love LA. I know........

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