Among the storied San Francisco food institutions that have stood the test of time — household names like Boudin, It’s-It and Ghirardelli — a quiet coffee pioneer has flown under the radar for 90 years. But that’s about to change.

Graffeo, San Francisco’s oldest roastery — one of the oldest in North America — is under new ownership for the first time in 47 years. Walter A. Haas III, grandson of Walter A. Haas Jr., the late millionaire and president of Levi Strauss & Co., has purchased the majority stake in North Beach specialty coffee roaster Graffeo from longtime owner Luciano Repetto for an undisclosed amount. Repetto, 80, will remain on as partner and co-owner.

Repetto and Haas III have deep ties to San Francisco. Repetto is a first-generation Italian American who grew up working in the roastery on Columbus Avenue and revolutionized the way Graffeo roasts coffee after taking it over from his father, Giovanni, in 1978. He grew it into what it is today — an artisanal brand favored by famed food critic Ruth Reichl and served in iconic Bay Area restaurants like Zuni Cafe, House of Prime Rib, Original Joe’s and two-Michelin-starred Lazy Bear. 

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An exterior view of Graffeo Coffee Roasting Co. on Columbus Avenue in San Francisco’s North Beach neighborhood, on Thursday, Jan. 23, 2025. 

Graffeo Coffee owner Luciano Repetto, right, chats with customers inside the storefront of Graffeo Coffee Roasting Co. in North Beach, on Thursday, Jan. 23, 2025. 

A sixth-generation San Franciscan, Haas is a lifelong marketer, having worked both for startups — one of which he founded, Gist — and for 172-year-old Levi’s, where he learned the secrets of keeping a brand relevant. While Levi’s is not affiliated with Graffeo, Haas is ready to apply what he knows to build the next great American brand, something he can devote the rest of his life to, he told SFGATE. 

“I understand and believe in the power of heritage businesses and San Francisco,” Haas said in an exclusive interview. “I think Graffeo will always be a well-kept secret. It will always be for connoisseurs, high-end restaurants and high-end grocery stores. People who are in the know. My job is to make it a slightly worse-kept secret.”

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Haas and Repetto would not disclose detailed plans for growing Graffeo, which currently moves a modest 300 to 450 pounds of coffee beans daily. Haas said the focus will be on increasing Graffeo’s footprint in fine restaurants and gourmet grocers (it’s currently in about 100 restaurants and grocery stores). He insisted that even if Graffeo were to double production of its offerings, it would still be considered small by industry standards. 

Graffeo Coffee employee Gregorio Diaz measures out bags of coffee beans to........

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