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How I cook without relying on dairy

22 0
25.03.2026

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How I cook without relying on dairy

A shift in my health changed how I cook — and led me to deeper flavor, new habits and a different kind of comfort

Published March 25, 2026 10:30AM (EDT)

A visit to the cheese shop is, for me, what I imagine a museum is like for a very good painter—except instead of brushstrokes, I’m clocking the tiny, sandy sparkle of tyrosine crystals on a wedge of parmesan; instead of composition, the way blue-green veins in a favorite bleu intersect like a little map of the L; instead of technique, the jaunty zigzag of a manchego rind (beautiful, sadly inedible).

I have always loved cheese, but during the pandemic, I decided to love it formally. I enrolled in a cheesemongering certification course through the UK-based Academy of Cheese and spent months with notecards on curds and whey, then more months learning how to taste with intention. In November 2021, I........

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