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An unnecessary amount of bread

14 0
22.06.2026

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An unnecessary amount of bread

Or: How to make a budget meal feel abundant

Published June 22, 2026 10:30AM (EDT)

A version of this essay first appeared in The Bite, Salon's food newsletter. Sign up for early access to articles like this, plus recipes, food-related pop culture recommendations and conversations about what we're eating, how and why.

One of the most interesting things about chain restaurants is that the bread is often the point.

Not the entrées. Not the décor. Not even the dessert. The bread.

People don’t just reminisce about their favorite evening at The Cheesecake Factory. They reminisce about the brown bread: those sweet, dark little wheat loaves scented with honey, molasses, cocoa powder and espresso. They’re so beloved that the company eventually started selling them in supermarkets nationwide. The same thing happened with Red Lobster’s Cheddar Bay biscuits, which escaped the restaurant entirely and became a grocery-store product in their own right — first as a boxed mix in 2012, then in frozen form in 2021.

Then........

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