The beef tartare trolley at Maison Francois. Courtesy Steven Joyce.

Everyone sitting in Maison François watches as our server dollops heaping spoonfuls of chopped cornichon and diced red onion into a large bowl of raw beef. The contemporary French restaurant’s tartare de boeuf trolley has become rather well-known in London, serving the classic dish with customizable flair beside the table rather than simply bringing it out from the kitchen. More salt, more hot sauce, an extra helping of capers—it’s all part of the event. As is watching the meal be made by a friendly server who explains the process as he goes. It’s no wonder the surrounding guests are staring with evident jealousy, whispering in hushed tones, as he places the completed tartare on the table. 

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Maison François’ trolleys are part of a growing trend among London restaurants. Requisite champagne and cheese trolleys have given way to creative new means of serving starters, entrees and desserts right next to the table, from ice cream sundaes to smoked salmon to tiramisu. There’s something wonderfully nostalgic about the style of service, but it also offers a sense of added value that’s in high demand with the rising cost of dining out. 

For Maison François, it’s a nod to the past with a modern approach. “Being in St. James, we wanted to respect the traditions of where we are,” the restaurant’s founder, François O’Neill, tells Observer. “It’s in the epicenter of club land, which was renowned for these kinds of carving trolleys. We started with the [dessert] trolley, and once we saw the success of what it offered, we started to evolve more ideas in terms of how to create trolley service.”

Trolleys aren’t new to London—in fact, they have a long history in the English capital. Simpson’s in the Strand, which opened in 1828 and will relaunch this fall under the ownership of Jeremy King, became well known for its carvery trolleys beginning in 1848. The Connaught Bar is famous for its martini trolley, which allows guests to build their own flavor profile with a choice of handmade bitters. Although some historic spots have continued the tradition of trolleys, they have fallen out of favor in recent decades, perhaps because diners have been looking for more modern approaches. Now, however, restaurateurs and chefs are hoping to revive tradition, encouraging the resurgence.

The Game Bird, located in the Stafford Hotel, currently has six different bespoke trolleys made by Rewthink, which have slowly been added since the restaurant’s relaunch in 2017. The trolleys serve champagne, a smoked salmon starter, beef Wellington, roast beef and........

© Observer