Let’s follow the journey of India’s humble messes and tiffin centres—canteen lifelines that have battled the food insecurity of migrant populations

Urban canteens remain uneasy spaces for women, whether as customers or cooks. This kitchen in Telibandha is a rarity, with the sole woman head chef in Raipur’s canteens

Summers are hot and winters really cold in my birthplace, Gwalior, a place known for its climatic extremes. The memories of the loo—those hot, suffocating winds that my aaji warned us against every post-school afternoon—came rushing back as I read chapter 5 of the new book Food For All: The Role of Urban Canteens in Nourishing Communities. The book is written by Gummadi Sridevi and Amalendu Jyotishi and published by University of Hyderabad–Institute of Eminence.

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The chapter delves into the Deendayal Antyodaya Rasoi Scheme in Gwalior, a lifeline for urban dwellers, offering low-cost, nutritious meals. This book serves as a comprehensive collection of nine-odd case studies from urban canteens across different cities and states. It doesn’t include Mumbai, which has experimented with zunka bhakri yojanas but not with the consistency that could have been achieved. Unfortunately, Maharashtra lacks a robust policy framework to enhance food and nutrition security for the needy; in fact it was civil society groups that did a good job of food provision during the COVID-19 pandemic.

Free, nutritious millets-based breakfast is served to the public at Buvva Bandi, a mobile canteen in Tellapur, Hyderabad. Pics courtesy Food For All

The Gwalior chapter (penned by Vaishnavi Paliya)—bringing alive the rhythm of the lunch hour—spoke to me in particular as the city has not just grown in proportions since my schoolgoing days in the 1970s,........

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