There was no hint of war when our small group of friends decided to plan a five-day trip to Azerbaijan in February. One of the first Soviet Republics to declare independence and one which straddled Europe and Asia along the historic Silk Road and located on the Caucasus with Caspian Sea on its east, Azerbaijan held a unique allure. Adding to the appeal were the affordable costs, the relatively simple visa process—far less daunting than the Schengen or the near-impossible U.S. visa—and the fact that the tour was being organised by a group familiar to some of us. Not surprisingly, Azerbaijan which was mostly unheard of until a few years ago, is recently a popular destination for Malayalis too.

But our plans were suddenly upended with the unexpected outbreak of hostilities between India and Pakistan. Azerbaijan, along with its close ally and patron, Turkey, declared full support for Pakistan, turning our travel plans on their head.

India was understandably enraged, and fervent calls arose from all around the country to retaliate. Among the several ways to hit back was the call to cancel all proposed visits, including those by Indian tourists to both countries. This was sure to hit both countries seriously as tourism was their key source of income. Indians formed a substantial number of the tourists to Turkey and Azerbaijan, and it has been rising significantly in recent years. The number of Indian tourists visiting Turkey rose by 21% last year to cross 3.3 lakhs. Indian tourists were of even more significance to Azerbaijan as they doubled in 2023 to cross 2.4 lakhs from 1.4 lakhs in the previous year. Indians constituted the third-largest contingent of foreign visitors to Azerbaijan, and they spent an average of $1280 per visit.

With patriotic emotions running high, cancellations of proposed tours from India to both countries rose rapidly. However, our tour operator, a minor player in the travel industry, found it would be disastrous to cancel all the group reservations it had already secured for the flights, hotels and other various arrangements in Azerbaijan. Neither could most members of our group, who were elderly pensioners, afford to abandon their long-cherished travel dreams, without the prospect of refunding their hard-earned money drawn from their lifetime savings.

There was yet another allure for the few journalists among us. After all, what journalist would willingly pass up the chance to be in a place currently at the centre of global attention? We were eager to understand firsthand—and to tell others—why Azerbaijan was taking the stand it was. After much deliberation, we decided to proceed with the trip, fully aware that it might invite criticism or raise uncomfortable questions back home. Yet, the pull of the story was too strong to resist.

After an 11-hour journey that began early in the morning on an Air Arabia flight—with a taxing five-hour layover at the overcrowded Sharjah........

© Mathrubhumi English