There is a stretch of Interstate 10 northwest of San Antonio where the relative lushness of the Hill Country gives way to the more arid landscape of West Texas. For me, this transition begins at the small crossroads town of Junction.

For Houston travelers, Junction is notable because it is about five hours from here going west, and if you start out in the morning, it’s a great pit stop for gas and lunch.

Fortunately, Junction is home to one of my favorite roadhouse barbecue joints in Texas: Lum’s BBQ.

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Established in 1976 by Louis and Richard Lumbley, Lum's BBQ was originally a hybrid convenience store and gas station that sold barbecue on the side. It evolved over the years into a dedicated barbecue restaurant and is now helmed by the family’s third generation, brothers Austin and Nicholas Lumbley.

In recent years, Lum’s has benefited from upgrades both to the........

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