Mango, it is said, is not a mere fruit but a culture. Which is why mango-growing regions are possessive about the varieties they grow and insist that theirs are the best. It is then no surprise that a war is brewing over the Alphonso (also called Hapus) between mango-growers in Maharashtra and Gujarat. Alphonso is India’s largest exported variety of mangoes, and the best fruit is claimed to be harvested from orchards in Devgad and Ratnagiri in the Konkan region in Maharashtra. The Devgad mango growers own the........

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