How this ancient practice could fight modern food waste
The three women in the painting stoop low in the field, their hands reaching for leftover stalks of wheat. Their bent figures dominate the foreground, emphasizing the physical toll of their labor. Jean-François Millet’s The Gleaners, painted in 1857, immortalized this act of necessity: gleaning, the collection of leftover crops after the harvest. Rooted in agrarian traditions, the term originates from the Old French glener and the Latin glennare, meaning “to gather.”
For centuries, gleaning had been a lifeline for the rural poor in England and France—a legally recognized right that allowed them to enter fields after the harvest to collect what remained. French law enshrined it as a civil right in 1554, while in England, it was an unspoken agreement that reflected the feudal system’s delicate balance between the privileged and the poor.
But by the late 18th century, this precarious equilibrium began to unravel. The forces of privatization and industrialization swept through England, as Enclosure Acts transformed common lands into private property, barring access for the poor. In 1788, the landmark court case Steel v. Houghton shattered the custom of gleaning as a right, reclassifying it as trespass. Mechanization soon followed, with threshing machines and combine harvesters leaving less behind for gleaners to collect. By the mid-19th century, gleaning had faded into memory, a relic of premodern agrarian life overtaken by the relentless march of progress.
And yet, Millet’s scene depicting the work of gathering what others have left behind is playing out once again—not as a relic, but as a response to the crises of food waste and poverty. In a potato field in Cornwall, England, volunteers sift through wooden crates, separating the good from the bruised, while others cut kale, filling sacks with leaves destined for community kitchens.
“We’re feeding quite a lot—about 10,000 people a week,” said Holly Whitelaw, the founder of Gleaning Cornwall. “It might just be a couple of bits of vegetables, but it’s something healthy.” The operation, run with the help of over 400 volunteers, relies on a patchwork of coordination via the online messaging platform WhatsApp, donated storage spaces, and sheer determination. Yet, Whitelaw notes, it’s far from enough: “Big funding is needed to really do this properly. The need is increasing.”
At a time when 3.3 million metric tons of food are wasted annually on U.K. farms, the environmental and social costs of........
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